Midnight in Siberia - heart of drunkeness
So what is Russia like after Gorbachev, then Yeltsin and now
Putin? Midnight in Siberia gets off to an odd start, as the author arrives to
work in Russia, as a journalist, not having learnt the Cyrillic alphabet. Even
the word PECTOPAH bemused him. Bad start but he a curious guy and with the help
of his companion/translator Sergei, takes the fabled Tran-Siberian train,
stopping off to interview the people that live in the remotest part of the
world. Remember that Russia is BIG - by far the biggest country in the world.
Siberia alone is 1.5 times the size of the US.
On a steady stream of vodka, tea and flowers, he interviews
an oddball selection of Russians. The alcohol consumption is outrageous, as bad
as I remember, when strangers would simply send a full bottle of vodka to your
table and expect one in return. This is a country where 60% of men smoke and
each person consumes four gallons of pure alcohol a year with half the
population classed as obese.
As he attempts to shatter the ice-cold, rude, unsmiling face
of public Russia to reveal the warmer, private lives of people. Leaving behind
the status-hungry, greedy managers of Moscow, who’d rather order the most
expensive than the best wine, he’s soon in a friendlier but complex world that
craves for stability. Most of the women he meets are divorced, but holding
things together. Trust in the authorities (police, government and law) is hard
to find and corruption rampant. People protect themselves by keeping their heads
down.
His golden rule is to ‘never ask why’, which is, oddly,
exactly what he does. The answers are often surprising as he encounters
nostalgia for Soviet security, even Stalin. People crave stability, strong
leaders and even when they travel, have a longing for the sort of suffering
that seems an intrinsic part of their lives. The joy of the book, and it is a
joy, is in the detail. The pagan beliefs that hang on with a mirror beside the
front door and the refusal to shake your hand across a doorway, the personal
tragedies, the weird stories and incomprehensible cruelties, the irrational
attempts at order on an underlying chaos.
Since writing this book Russia has gone down a gear
economically but the book suggests that Putin will weather this storm on the
back of a people who, in practice, no longer trust or rely on politicians to
solve their problems. In the end, however, what he finds and reveals is
something I also encountered, a strange addiction to fatalism. I travelled
twice to the Soviet Union, over three decades ago, from St Petersberg to
Moscow, way down to Kiev, Bukkara, Dushanbe, Tashkent and Almata. It was both
exhilarating and infuriating, and remains the strangest, most foreign,
enigmatic place I’ve ever been. Thirty five years later, with a great many
books about Russia under my belt, it remains as odd a place in my imagination
as it’s ever been!
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